Update from Korea Visit

[<DasHaas@aol.com>]

5 August

    Listers!

    I've just returned from a week or so visit to Yongsan Garrison, the DMZ, 
Panmunjom, and Osan AB.  Thought I'd take a moment to update you on a few 
things that may be of interest.

    - The USFK History Office at Yongsan Garrison has recently gone through 
some major upgrades thanks to the arrival a few months ago of an energetic 
army major, one "Chip" Knighten.  It's now called the Heritage Center, and 
though it's still small,  it's set up to receive vet-visitors.  They've 
nearly completed a MOH room showing the photo and related info on all but one 
of the MOH recipients of the war.  Best of all, they've got a great attitude 
toward vets, so if you're off to Seoul, make a point of dropping by.

    - Personnel turbulence due to the short tour-lengths is still causing 
considerable problems to the combat readiness of the forces there.  I was 
told that there was something like a 125% turnover throughout the last year.  
Don't know how you go over 100%, but you get the picture.

    - Have also learned that in the eyes of many, the 2d Inf Div's six 
battalions are so spread out and poorly placed in the hills and narrow 
valleys north of Seoul, that the Div stands little chance of giving a good 
account of itself, or even defending itself, should the NKs come across the 
DMZ.  This dangerous state of affairs apparently appears acceptable to US and 
SK politicians because the destruction of the 2ID will be used as a political 
rallying cry to get the U.S. involved in a future war.  I.e., the combat 
performance of the division itself is a secondary issue.  With this 
rationale, training areas and firing ranges have been severely reduced in 
size and number.

    - During my first and only visit to Panmunjom, I discovered that it's a 
must stop for any vet or major pol-mil figures going to Korea.  The tension 
and hatred between NK and SK guards is palpable.  There's been more violence 
there than has generally made the papers (e.g., in 1984 a NK "photographer" 
(subsequently confirmed to be a NKPA officer) kicked a U.S. Army major in the 
throat, causing serious injury).  No NK guards got close to me, content to 
look at me through binocs.  But it's still a good place to be paranoid.

    A real eye opener if you haven't seen it before.  The area around 
Panmunjom is the only area in which U.S. army patrols are still conducted (to 
check for line-crossers coming south).  Note: The 2ID has no "eyes on target" 
in the DMZ, a change made a number of years ago.  The SK Army took it's place 
with the promise that it would feed it's Current Intell to the 2ID, but that 
never happened.

    - There's a nice monument to Task Force Smith in Suwon; worth a stop if 
you're going through the area.

    - Finally, if your a retired vet, the DragonHill Lodge at Yongsan 
Garrison is nicely done, with several restaurants and shops inside.  Nice 
place to stay after the 12-hour-long flight from the west coast.

    Hope I haven't abused my List privileges in putting out this current 
note.  Thanks!

Mike